Trip Report: Great Falls of the Potomac
Climbing at Great Falls
Map of Great Falls SP.
PATC Great Falls Park page.
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| A view of the cliffs of Mather Gorge in the wintertime. (Virginia side, Feb 97) |
Great Falls is located only about 10 miles upstream of the Nations Capitol and is easily accessible from the Beltway. To my great surprise, it really is a Great falls. There are recreation areas on both sides of the river and each has a very different character.
The Virginia side features many historical offerings of Revolution-era ruins. George Washington engineered a pretty impressive canal--still visible for most of it's length--circumventing the falls to allow commerce with the western areas of Pennsylvania, Maryland and the Virginias.
There are several trials, but the most popular winds along the tops of 50' cliffs for a mile or two overlooking Mather Gorge, popular playground of white-water kayakers and rock-climbers.
The Maryland side, often referred to as the Billygoat Trail is a substantially rougher trail and not as popular, but it offers some good scrambling over rocks and some nice woods. The C&O Canal with it's walking/biking path passes through the area and a number of more recent locks in better condition than those on the other side can be viewed.
And the Falls themselves! Wow! Upon first laying eyes upon this seething mass of ClassVI+ whitewater, I could not believe that such a beast existed so close to civilization. Rather than one large waterfall a la Niagra, this is a ~50' drop in the river interupted by a chaos of rocky spires and basins. There are as many ways of running the falls are there are ways of dying in the process. Indeed many people have, despite the signs, caught the wrong end of mother nature in just this way. Just down stream (on the tops of the 50' cliffs) is a picnic area. A sign-post marks various high-water levels, some of them in recent years, many of them several feet overhead!
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| Adam Green and other members of JHOC lunch on the Virginia side overlooking the Gorge. (Feb 97). |
Trip 1
This is a nice hike on the Virginia side showing off many of the best features of this side of the river, both natural and historical. From the parking lot, head east through the picnic ground. There are several overlooks of the falls themselves on the left which are well-worth checking out. At the far end of the picnic area, bear left toward the water and hike along the tops of the cliffs. Beware of top-roped climbers and keep an eye out for kayakers playing in the tremendous standing waves of the gorge below. After a mile or so, you will cross the lower end of the old canal as it drops to the river in a very deep, gunpowder-carved gorge.Further on you will cross to a paved path leading down to a boat ramp on the river. By following the paved path, you will pass through an old quarry and then have the options of a level horse path or a rockier hiking trail back to the visitor's center. The hiking trail leads to the ruins of Mathildaville, a town assocciated with the old canal and still evident in some places. Interpretive signs help the unimaginative.
For those wishing a longer hike, continue along the riverside after the boat launch. You will pass over Cow Hoof Rock, a conical rock with a decent view of the river, and eventually to the mouth of Difficult Run, a picturesque stream falling through many cascades and pools. By following Difficult Run (which is pretty easy, despite the name) you'll come to a horse path which will bring you back to the parts described above.
Trip distance: 3 or 5 miles depending on route.
Terrain: level with occasional rocks
 Many Potholes can be found on the Maryland side of the river. Some are quite large... (January 98). |
Trip 2
On the Maryland side of the river, a good 4-5 mile hike can be had on the Billygoat Trail. This trail starts at a parking lot adjacent to the Old Angler's Inn. Follow the C&O canal path for perhaps half a mile upstream and take a left onto the marked trail. Two miles of rough up and down follow with good views of the river. The latter half of the trail proceeds along bare cliff-tops not quite as vertical as those on the other side, but having (in my opinion) superior views. There are a series of fascinating pot holes caused by errosive action of rocks caught in river eddies. Some of these are large enough to stand in (see photo).At the upper end of the trail, the hiker is rewarded with a good view of some of the rocky islands immediately downstream of the falls--some nice shoots and channels frequented by boaters. The trail rejoins the canal tow-path near Lock 16. Right takes you back to the parking lot along the canal. Leftward, the path climbs up to overlooks the falls itself.
Trip Distance: simple loop-4miles
Terrain: rocky with many scrambles. Fun!
Climbing at Great Falls
Great Falls, despite the unnerving name, is also known for it's many climbing routes of all levels. Here are some photos from a trip we took in late April. Yours Truly pumping out on a 5.7 at Aid Box |  Nick loses it at Eagle's Nest |
 Scott doesn't lose it at Eagle's Nest |
 Gabe does the Corner at Aid Box |
 Amy climbing the Epigone crack (5.6) |  Amy in a textbook layback. |
 The Wilderness Journal |  Neithernor |